Writing away.
sábado, 28 de marzo de 2009
We're Home!
Ya gotta love the USA. Clean, big houses, cars, nice roads. It's like coming to a country club.
martes, 17 de marzo de 2009
Belize Trip - Mayan Home Stay
Right after our stay in Dangraga, we spent one night in a Mayan lodge and one in a Mayan home stay. The lodge was so-so, but the home stay with Alba and Emilio Pop and their 3 children was amazingly wonderful. We were supposed to stay for 2 nights, but there was some mix-up with the Aurora, who arranges the home-stays, so we only got to stay for one night. Alba and her family were so welcoming and so fun that I was really sorry it ended up being for only one night.
Alba's kids were Alvin (11), Amelia (9), and Chimera (5). The house was small and concrete with a kitchen and a bedroom. The Pop's had a stove, oven and refrigerator, so they were doing well. The yard was fenced off with chain-link and there were 2 roosters, 10 chickens, and 4 chicks in the yard, along with a little kitten and 2 dogs that were tied up until they got used to the kitten.
We stayed in a wooden room with a palm-frond ceiling right behind the house that the Pop's use for home stays. It was nice and airy and we all slept on a full size bed that we put mosquito netting up over.
Doves roosted on the ceiling, the dogs ran around at night and liked to bump into the walls of our room, and the rooster liked to be right next to our room to crow BEFORE the sun came up. I thought it was lovely.
Alba made us tomalitos, tamalis made with unripe corn and nothing inside, that all three of us adored. I can hardly wait to have another one. We had chicken and rice and beans for dinner, which was wonderful as well. It was Sunday night, so I went to church that night with Alba and Emilio. It was a Roman Catholic service in Mopan, the Mayan language Alba and her family and the Mayans in the area speak. Alba and her family speak Mopan and English, but no Spanish. Emilio and another man played guitar at the service and someone from the congregation led the service. Every couple of weeks a priest comes from one of the towns to celebrate mass with them. The Mopan language, with it's x's, is lovely.
Isabel ran around with Alba's kids and took the broom to sweep and played with the kitten (poor kitten) and followed Alba around and had a fabulous time. Robert and Emilio talked soccer (there was a match in the field right in front of their house) and trees and building. Alba and I talked about adoption and food and the students she's had stay at her house. The kitchen/dining room was one of the warmest and coziest I've ever been in, and that was because the family was so friendly and close.
Belize Trip - Tikal
We took a day trip to Tikal, Guatemala, a giant ancient Mayan site, and took Isabel with us on that excursion.
It took us about 45 minutes to get through the border crossing into Guatemala because the Guatemalans want you to take their vans to the Tikal and so they make it obnoxiously difficult for vans from Belize to go across the border. You need a bunch of paper-work and they look for nit-picky things to deny you access to cross. They spent 20 minutes looking for the VIN number of our van to be sure it matched the VIN on all the documents for the van. We got through, but another van from Chaa Creek had to turn around because one number in the VIN was missing in one of the documents. Chaa Creek even sent Dosio up to the crossing with more documentation, but they still wouldn't let them in. Joe, our driver, was organized and efficient. And fun to talk to. He and his wife both create curriculum for the Belize school system for their full-time jobs, and Joe does these tours on his off days.
We climbed to the top of Temple 4 first and got a breath taking look at the jungle around us and of the site. Unlike Chichinitza, we didn't have to climb the stone steps but there were wooden steps on the side. Not as exciting and authentic, but easier and less scary. Seeing how high the temples are and how large the site is (with temples and sleeping quarters for royalty and other things like plazzas and ball fields), it suddenly became clear how important and complex the Mayan society here was and how many people lived close by. When the Mayans were living in the area, Belize had more than 3 times the population it has today!! This was a big deal.
It took us about 45 minutes to get through the border crossing into Guatemala because the Guatemalans want you to take their vans to the Tikal and so they make it obnoxiously difficult for vans from Belize to go across the border. You need a bunch of paper-work and they look for nit-picky things to deny you access to cross. They spent 20 minutes looking for the VIN number of our van to be sure it matched the VIN on all the documents for the van. We got through, but another van from Chaa Creek had to turn around because one number in the VIN was missing in one of the documents. Chaa Creek even sent Dosio up to the crossing with more documentation, but they still wouldn't let them in. Joe, our driver, was organized and efficient. And fun to talk to. He and his wife both create curriculum for the Belize school system for their full-time jobs, and Joe does these tours on his off days.
We climbed to the top of Temple 4 first and got a breath taking look at the jungle around us and of the site. Unlike Chichinitza, we didn't have to climb the stone steps but there were wooden steps on the side. Not as exciting and authentic, but easier and less scary. Seeing how high the temples are and how large the site is (with temples and sleeping quarters for royalty and other things like plazzas and ball fields), it suddenly became clear how important and complex the Mayan society here was and how many people lived close by. When the Mayans were living in the area, Belize had more than 3 times the population it has today!! This was a big deal.
Belize Trip - ATM Cave and the Crystal Maidan
4 days ago Robert and I took the ATM Cave excursion. It was fabulous and exhausting (at least for me, since I've been fighting a cold). You hike for about 45 minutes, crossing a river 3 times by wading through it, to get to the entrance to the cave. At the entrance you swim about 30 feet to get into the cave (brrrrr!), then wade up the cave for about an hour or so using the headlamps on your helmets for light. There are beautiful crystaline formations in the cave as intricate stalagtites. It's like the rock is diamond-encrusted.
The cave goes back for 3 1/2 miles, but we only go back about 1/2 mile, which is the only part of the cave with Mayan artifacts. At about 1/2 mile in, you climb up onto a high shelf, take your shoes off, and walk barefoot through a crystaline cathedral. It's really the only way to describe it. It's easy to see why the Mayan's thought this place was sacred and close to the gods. There are vaulted ceilings and delicate sparkling stone sculptures. And right there, on the ground, are original Mayan pots and fire structures. Further inside are calcified bones from sacrifices, 15 in all. At the back is a complete skeleton of a young woman that sparkles from calcification.
After we came out the sun was shining (it was raining when we went in) and we ate our lunch at a small palapia. Another group came out at the same time we did, and we all vied for space in the sunshine. The walk back in the sunshine was lovely, and our guide, Orlando, even talked us into eating some tree termites he found in a nest, which really do taste like carrots when you bite into them. (I admit I wouldn't have done it if everyone else in our group of 5 hadn't tried them, but I didn't want to be the only wuss). Orlando had tricked us into tasking a horrible tasting plant on the way in. I'm sure it has great medicinal properties, but it tasted really horrible - I might opt for having worms or malaria if the cure was eating that plant. So, for the termites, we all waited until Orlando ate one before we did.
The cave goes back for 3 1/2 miles, but we only go back about 1/2 mile, which is the only part of the cave with Mayan artifacts. At about 1/2 mile in, you climb up onto a high shelf, take your shoes off, and walk barefoot through a crystaline cathedral. It's really the only way to describe it. It's easy to see why the Mayan's thought this place was sacred and close to the gods. There are vaulted ceilings and delicate sparkling stone sculptures. And right there, on the ground, are original Mayan pots and fire structures. Further inside are calcified bones from sacrifices, 15 in all. At the back is a complete skeleton of a young woman that sparkles from calcification.
After we came out the sun was shining (it was raining when we went in) and we ate our lunch at a small palapia. Another group came out at the same time we did, and we all vied for space in the sunshine. The walk back in the sunshine was lovely, and our guide, Orlando, even talked us into eating some tree termites he found in a nest, which really do taste like carrots when you bite into them. (I admit I wouldn't have done it if everyone else in our group of 5 hadn't tried them, but I didn't want to be the only wuss). Orlando had tricked us into tasking a horrible tasting plant on the way in. I'm sure it has great medicinal properties, but it tasted really horrible - I might opt for having worms or malaria if the cure was eating that plant. So, for the termites, we all waited until Orlando ate one before we did.
jueves, 12 de marzo de 2009
Belize - Chaa Creek
Chaa Creek is a Five Star resort in the middle of the jungle. It's nicer than any resort I've stayed in anywhere. We stayed at the lodge for 4 nights, and our room had a huge granite shower with 2 shower heads, an outdoor shower in a private outdoor patio, a big room with fans and a palm-frond sloped roof. The food is gourmet for all the meals and dinner is 4 wonderful courses.
Then we spent 4 nights in the camp, which is just as wonderful in it's own way. We have a big stilted cabin to ourselves and share hot showers and bathrooms. Dosio, who runs the camp, is an amazing guy, and he makes sure we have what we need and are taken care of. Breakfast and dinner are included and are typical Belizian fare, with lots of eggs and rice and bisquits.
Carmelita, a woman from Cristo Rey (across the river) who works in the laundry here babysat for us when we wanted some time to ourselves or when we went to the ATM cave or horse-back riding, where Isabel couldn't go. Isabel loved being with her, although she was still upset for a couple of minutes when we left her. Carmelita was wonderful with Isabel, taking her to town and to the staff quarters where she got attention from everyone. All the staff here know her and are wishing her goodbye since this is our last day here.
Then we spent 4 nights in the camp, which is just as wonderful in it's own way. We have a big stilted cabin to ourselves and share hot showers and bathrooms. Dosio, who runs the camp, is an amazing guy, and he makes sure we have what we need and are taken care of. Breakfast and dinner are included and are typical Belizian fare, with lots of eggs and rice and bisquits.
Carmelita, a woman from Cristo Rey (across the river) who works in the laundry here babysat for us when we wanted some time to ourselves or when we went to the ATM cave or horse-back riding, where Isabel couldn't go. Isabel loved being with her, although she was still upset for a couple of minutes when we left her. Carmelita was wonderful with Isabel, taking her to town and to the staff quarters where she got attention from everyone. All the staff here know her and are wishing her goodbye since this is our last day here.
Belize - Dangriga
Our room at the Chaleanor.
The view from our window in the Chaleanor.
Washing day.
Go carts, Dangriga style.
Main Street Dangriga
Roots Kitchen. Good Garifuno soul food (whole fish cooked in coconut milk, hudut).
Fun, laid back, good food (like southern cooking, lots of fat), family-oriented, dirty, dusty, beautiful, interesting.
We stayed at the Chaleanor Hotel, and the people who run it are wonderful. We got corn tortillas at Rosalinda's Tortilla Factory (just a largish building) where they sell them by the pound. We went to the store several times to stock up on provisions, and found out all the stores are owned by Chinese people. We walked across the whole town watching people doing their washing (often by hand) and hanging it out to dry under their stilted wood houses. We ate at Roots (tiny shack with slanted floor and 4 tiny tables and great food). Lots of people with dread-locks, and a very casual feel to the whole town. The main ethnic group is Garafuno and the language sounds a little like English but is impossible to understand with Swahili and Karib and Spanish mixed in.
Isabel got sick for one day here, but fortunately it cleared up in time for us to feel good about moving on.
Belize - South Water Caye
Plane to Dangriga.
First sandy beach, at Pelican Resort in Dangriga.
Our room at South Water.
Hammock baby.
5 squids all in a row.
We stayed at The Pelican Pouch at South Water Caye and it was like being at a zen garden with walk-in snorkeling. Every day they rake the sand on the third of the island that is owned by Pelican Pouch so that it is clean and soothing. We stayed in the only cabana without a name, high on stilts and a distance from any of the other cabanas.
Robert went on two snorkeling trips and 4 diving trips. I stayed at the resort and lay on the beach and walked into the surf for stunning snorkeling. Near the beach we saw 11 squid, lined up in a row almost by size and just swaying in the tide with their tentacles bent over the top like a mop head. They would get darker when we'd come closer and lighter when we went further away.
We got burned to a toasty red when we first got there, thanks to taking doxycycline for malaria prevention.
While we were there the resort brought in a babysitter for Isabel from Dangriga (the closest city on the mainland), Tomasita, who brought her 2 year old daughter Tiara with her. Isabel went with Tomasita every day for several hours while I read books and Robert dove or snorkeled. It was lovely. Isabel never liked going with her, but she got more and more used to it and would be playing with Tiara when we went to pick her up.
Usually we'd go swimming in the morning with Isabel, then again around 3pm. Isabel liked the water and riding around on Daddy's back, being buried in the sand, and looking for star fish.
Belize - the trip down and Belize City
picture - Belize City from the air.
The trip down took 8 hours, and it wasn't so bad. I got 7 different toys from the dollar store and one from New Seasons. I had plastic lizards and bugs, a new doll, pattern picture flash cards, and an African animals and veterinarian set. They worked well. About once an hour I'd pull out a new toy and it would be new and interesting enough to keep you busy for 15 or 20 minutes
On the trip to Houston (the longest leg of the trip), you wanted to get up so we walked (you ran) up and down the aisle of the plane for about 45 minutes.
When we got to the Belize International Airport, it was hot and humid and we were all in our jeans.
In Belize City (for one night) we stayed at Hotel Mopan. Our cab driver from the airport told us to be careful in Belize City because most of it is dangerous. This is why he lives with his family outside of town. The tour books and web sites had told me the same thing. We were in down town, near the Tourist Village (I swear, that's what it's called) where the cruise ships bring their passengers.
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